Nowadays, pastry is worldwide considered as hype and is in front of a new challenge.
Since 3 decades, partly thanks to Pierre Hermé, pastry is out of the woods and is increasingly seen as a section of the kitchen itself.And put in front of the stage, it is revisited by bakers who get international renowned. Pastry-confectioners become creators. And starred restaurants – unfortunately the stars are associated with chefs, don’t we use the expression « starred chef » – commit pastry-cooks to create new pastry-”lines”.
Techniques are invented. New raw materials are used. Unusual associations are proposed.
To what end? Taste, beauty and pleasure.
More and more people try at home and make a “tarte infiniment citron” as Pierre Hermé recipe instead of the simple “lemon pie” according to the recipe found on sites – let’s invent – such as marmite.gro or 800g.moc.
The pastry is nowadays a way of creating and recreation, such as design and artistic performance. The pastries are more and more “design”: products become, especially to the plate, artistic expressions, and shops boutiques. And as an artistic performance, a pastry is ephemeral.
The challenge – even my challenge: how to ensure food safety and protect the health – avoiding “risky” additives such as certain colors, texturing, flavor enhancers, preservatives, antioxidants, emulsifiers as well the contamination through the equipment and raw materials used and maintaining a balanced diet in terms of fat, carbohydrates and proteins – while giving pleasure to consumers in a contemporary way. From the moment he is knowledgeable, controls the entire production chain, is open to the art world, only a craftsman will succeed. It is a way to get free!
Text: Christian Lejour